Out of a plane from lower altitudes than where I was this morning at 6am!!!!! I was almost on top of the world!
This is Cotopaxi, which stands at 5,897 metres....And just before 6am this morning I made it to the summit!!!!! It is an active volcano...Active in the sense that it goes off every 100 years, and was due to 25 years ago...It is being monitored very carefully as if an eruption eventuates, the lava flow is thought to be able to reach Quito in 15 minutes...
Enough of the doom and gloom, though...As most of you know I have been out of contact for 10 days now. Basically, I have spent that time trekking, and acclimatising so that I could make it to the top of Cotopaxi! As mentioned in my last blog, there were afew mountains we were going to ascend in preparation for The Big One. Unlike what many people think, most of Ecuador's mountains are actually easy to get to the top of, (without taking into account altitude, of course).
So went up to the summit of Pasochoa, on a day that was so wet...Within 15 minutes we were soaked to the bone. Didn't help that the Hostel where we stayed had fire places, but the wood was so damp, we couldn't light anything...Some even sacrificed boxer shorts in an attempt to light a fire. Then spent 3 days in Cotopaxi National Park, literally scrambling up and down ravines, and moutains.....many bum slides there. Apparently Ecuador is the highest user of water in South America - And they can afford to be, it rains almost every day!
One mountain which will still have to be conquered is Iliniza North (as opposed to South)...We, (Bec and Dave are an English couple with whom I've done most of my trekking with here - Brilliant, brilliant people!) made it to the refuge, no problems there, other than the bareness of it...But hey it was a roof. To make it to the summit at dawn, (6am) we were getting up at 4am. Well the alarms went off and we were told by Marco, our guide to stay in bed one more hour - Bad weather. Indeed it was, the moutain was covered in thick layers of cloud, the sun was not able to pierce through...It was extremely surreal, walking in the dark with the wind howling threats to blow us off the mountain side, and black ice on every rock we put our feet on...About an hour from the top Marco called it off - It was too dangerous for us to continue.
As for this morning, well actually the adventure started yesterday! We got to the refuge, (4,500m) just on 2pm...Weather once we got there was hideous, rain, snow, wind...Not good climbing conditions, but it had all cleared by 4pm, so a few of us from our group, (we were six in total) hiked up to the glacier, (a good 40 minute walk) to have a bit of a walk with crampons and get an idea of how to use an ice axe - Especially if you fall....
Then it was back to the refuge for dinner at 5pm...And to bed by 6pm. Sounds kinda weird, I know, but hey, we were being torn out of bed at 11pm, so that we could start the ascent by midnight. As it is sleeping at 6pm is difficult....Even more so when you put us all at altitude! Love my earplugs though, they do wonders.
Imagine walking attached to another 3 people by rope, one behind the other, all with ice axe in hand, and dressed like eskimoes, the stars shining brightly above you, and the snow glittering at your feet, due to the headtorch your shining there, because other than the moon it is the only light guiding your way. And you plod one foot in front of the other, or if it is really steep, (between 20 & 70 degrees) you go up with your feet crossing over....Your muscles and your head are aching and screaming for more oxygen for what you are making them do, your water bottle freezing over due to wind, temperature and altitude, and the only thing keeping you going is "I'm going to make it to the top, one step at a time" - And all of this in the dark with just a head torch lighting your way fo 6 hours!
Rereading this, I think I've put it really mildly - Quite truthfully it was hell. It is the most difficult situation both mentally and physically I have put myself through....Ever.
The top was amazing.....Especially at dawn. We were above the cloud line and the other mountain peeking up above the clouds is Chimborazo, Ecuador's highest peak, (over 6,000m).
So there you go, me and the Cotopaxi crater at 5897m - Didn't stay up the top long, was way too cold!
Was quite proud of myself on the way down, was so tired I kept on catching my crampons together, causing me to fall over a number of times...One was splendid though with me sliding face first down the glacier...The lessons the previous day paid off, I managed to "self arrest" - Stop myself from sliding too far down, using my ice axe. I'm a pro!!!
I sit here writing this, thinking about my achievements, and I have not yet eaten since last night...Am kinda saving myself for a celebratory dinner with Bec and Dave (Red wine never sounded so good), and have not yet slept, adrenaline kinda gets to you like that.
Anyhoo, probably won't write for another little while, simply as after my little expedition of this morning, I think I've earnt a week on a boat...I'm going to the Galapagos Islands tomorrow morning, for a week, and hope to hang out with some hammerhead sharks!